In The Land of the Midnight Sun

Hello Readers!

I’m just back from an exceptional three days at the Toolik Field Station (http://goo.gl/NlH6e6). My travels up north are a fulfillment of a childhood dream. This field station is located over the Brooks Range, on the North Slope Tundra of Alaska. It’s a 10 hour trip up the Dalton Highway  from Fairbanks to this very remote location. The area had just had its first snow of the year which was slowly melting off the Tundra, but in my opinion it was there to stay in the mountains. Apparently, it’s typical for snow to start to hang around by the middle of September! Temps were dropping down to the low 20s at night, and were only raising up to about 35 during the daytime.  Late fall and winter are already setting in this far north, and should be headed towards the U.S. 48 any day! The trip up there was part of my graduate orientation. I was accompanied by 7 other new graduate students. Our goal was to enjoy the arctic, understand the Toolik field station and get to know everyone in the group.

Toolik is located above the arctic circle which is 66′ 33″. This arbitrary line is determined by the latitude where the sun can be seen at midnight during the summer solstice. Hence, once you cross in the arctic you are officially in the land of the “midnight sun”. The dark nights are famous in this area and are very difficult for some to cope with. However, without further ado I’m looking forward to taking you along the journey up the Dalton Highway and to the Toolik Field Station!

P8310028
The official crossing into the Arctic circle along the Dalton Highway.
P8310029
My journey became official with my crossing certificate!

GEOLOGY and TUNDRA-ISTICS

One of the great pieces to this trip was the knowledge of the staff and personnel who were with us. I learned a lot about the geology of tundra features. One of the prominent features on the tundra were the Thermokarsts. These features are formed when permafrost (ie: ground that stays frozen) begins to thaw and collapse. Some thermokarsts are capable of sinking 10s of feet, while others may only drop several inches. The significance of this is that a large amount of carbon is released from the soil as it thaws and collapses. The released carbon can cause changes to the ecology, biology, and communities around the thermokarst.  As much as 1/3 of the tundra across the world is made up of material that would collapse in a warming world. So, what do these thermokarsts look like? Here you go:

P8310065
Active Detachment layer (Thermokarst)
P9010170
Active Detachment layer (Thermokarst)

Each of the images that you are looking at are examples of a specific type of Thermokarst. They are “active detachment layers”. The active layer is the permafrost that thaws each year. In these spots the permfrost has thawed in the top layer and had begun to slide down the hillside. This landslide is occurring overtop of the still frozen soil below.

During a 6 mile hike up the Atigun Gorge we encountered another feature that were looking for. Geodes and fossils. The geodes found in the area ranged from golfball to watermelon sized. Once you cracked them open the crystals inside looked like many small diamonds! We also found an a shale area laden with fossils of shells from ages past.  I have never seen a concentration of fossils like that!

P9010174
Crystals inside of a large Geode found in the Atigun Gorge

PLANTS OF THE TUNDRA

Everything regarding plants happens slowly in the Tundra. Dwarf birch may stand 8 inches tall and be 50 years old! The trees in the tundra are limited by the growing season and nutrients in the soils. However, they still cover manyof the areas that you walk in. In the pictures here you can see the dwarf birch in the reds and yellows throughout the area. Hopefully it demonstrates the blanketing of these plants as well as the height. Notice the caribou antlers for Scale? These pictures were taken in Atigun Gorge, Finger Mountain and along the Dalton Highway.

Finger Mountain Pan
A panorama of the area around Finger Mountain. This area was used by hunters who like to sit high above everything else and watch for Caribou. Look how many trees ARE NOT there! It’s the Tundra!
P9010171
Life and death on the tundra. This caribous died in the Atigun gorge and has provided nutrition (calcium) for many ground squirrels which have chewed on its antlers.

P9020186

Another common species of tree is the black spruce. It’s the iconic tree of the boreal forest and is VERY slow growing. Fully mature trees may be only 6 inches in diameter and over 100 years old! Here you can see the different sizes of spruce.  The growth rings on the tree are so tiny that I couldn’t even count them. Scientists age these tress while alive by taking a core sample of the tree. The plug resembles a skinny pencil.

P8310017
Look at just how slowly this black spruce grows! The larges core is 72 years old, and the smaller one is over 50. Growth occurs at a truly snailish rate in the Tundra!

One of the common berries that we found were the low-bush cranberry. Some of you may be familiar with these berries from Minnesota in the bogs. These plants have a tart red berry which is loaded with vitamin  C. I thought that the tundra berries didn’t have as much flavor as the ones that I found in bogs. Perhaps a research project in the making?? We also found cloud berry, blue berry, crow berry and bear berry. All of those berries are edible, but the cloud berries are by far the best!  There is also several species of peas found in the tundra. I couldn’t find any with pods, but I guess they get them. The pea plants are found among rocky outcrops and are very low to the ground.

P8310023
Pea plant in the tundra. only about 1.5 cm tall!
P8310026
Bear Berry and low bush cranberry.

Cotton grass is aptly named for its cotton like heads. This grass is very common through the tundra, and during the right times of year will cause the tundra to look like a cloud with all of the fluffy white heads.

Cottongrass
Cottongrass

THE ALASKA PIPELINE

The Alaskan pipeline is HUGE. I’ll just start by saying that. It also is an engineering marvel. The pipeline is prevalent along the entire Dalton Highway and continues to to run north past Toolik another 120 miles up to Prudhoe Bay. The pipeline was built back between 1974 and 1977 (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Trans-Alaska_Pipeline_System), it’s nearly 40 years old. It is earthquake resistant as well as cooled to avoid melting into the permafrost. Many of the poles have heat vents coupled with refrigerator coolent. These radiators keep the pipe from thawing the soil. The pipe is suspended on teflon pads, and the pipe can slide over the pads during an earthquake, which gives it a lot of security. In the case emergency a pump station can shut down the flow of the pipe in any given spot. However, spills are pretty uncommon, and the only one that anyone talked about was an incident involving a drunken man with a gun who managed to shoot a hole through the pipe. Most of the pipe is layed above ground, but there are certain sections that are underground. It’s also necessary for the pipe to cross many rivers, including the Mighty Yukon.

Alaska pipeline. Here you can see the radiators as well as the teflon pads.
Alaska pipeline. Here you can see the radiators as well as the teflon pads.
The Alaskan pipeline snaking its way after just crossing the Yukon
The Alaskan pipeline snaking its way after just crossing the Yukon
Welcome to the Might Yukon River!
Welcome to the Mighty Yukon River!

LIFE IN TOOLIK FIELD STATION

The scenery never truly stopped no matter where you looked throughout the station. The TFS houses up to 150 scientists in the summer, but tapers of to 10 – 15 throughout the winter. The remote setting ensures that only a skeleton crew is left to man the needs of the researchers and facilities. The TFS sits to the north of the Brooks range and offers unprecedented views of the mountains. Wildlife abound in the area and yellow-billed loons live on the lake. Wolves, caribou, wolverines, musk ox, ground squirrels and many other species of animal may be found in the area.

This is the Brooks range as seen from the Toolik Field Station.
This is the Brooks range as seen from the Toolik Field Station.
I could not resist taking this shot through the window of the mess hall. This is what we looked at as we ate our meals.
I could not resist taking this shot through the window of the mess hall. This is what we looked at as we ate our meals.
Sorry this panorama is so large, but it captures about 180 degrees of the view from the field station.
Sorry this panorama is so large, but it captures about 180 degrees of the view from the field station.
Toolik Lake behind the station.
Toolik Lake behind the station.
The sunset during our first night at the Station. Toolik Lake is in the foreground.
The sunset during our first night at the Station. Toolik Lake is in the foreground.
This is just one of the diesel generators that power the Station. They are loud and huge!
This is just one of the diesel generators that power the Station. They are loud and huge!

If you would like to read about one of the recent research projects from the Toolik Field station you can here: http://www.iab.uaf.edu/news/news_release_by_id.php?release_id=112

This research looked at the response of the tundra to fire. In 2004 and 2005 over 6 millions acres of Tundra burned which is an unheard of number! Black spruce, which may have been growing for 200 years were torched. The research found that the tundra actually recovered pretty fast, and that the amount of carbon released was the equivalent to the accumulation of about 30 years. So, overall it might have been worse. However, an increased fire regime is expected on the tundra due to the warming climate, so more fires like these 8 years ago may occur.

AURORA BOREALIS

We were incredibly blessed when we got there. The sky had just cleared off after nearly a week of foggy, rainy, snowy weather. The first night the Aurora appeared about 12AM. It started as light green haze in the sky and continued to intensify until ribbons of pink and green floated for miles around us. Areas of the aurora would build and fade so quickly it was hard to take it all in. As my eyes dashed about the sky there was always something else to see. However, it was almost impossible to comprehend. In some regards it can be related to a Rainbow because as you stand and look at it it connects to the earth and you feel there is a source to the light. However, chasing it would never yield a starting location. I’ve throught a lot about the best ways to describe how I felt the first night that it boomed and loomed over my head. Here’s some of the inadequate descriptions that I thought of:

  • Undulating Jelly fish
  • watermelon bacon
  • Overwhelmed
  • Temporary ribbons
  • Natural Psychedelia
  • Infinity

On the night we had a bonfire which can be seen in many of the aurora photo. Again, it started in a light green haze that continued to grow and become saturated. The aurora the second night was so much different that the first! Rather than the organized bands it saturated everything and damped out the skies. You can see in the ground that the snow was green from the surreal light above! Again, words truly cannot describe how these lights effect your senses, your mood and your heart. Everything in in your person is drawn to them and you cannot help but watch.

Want to do some technical reading about the Aurora? Head to Wikipedia (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Aurora_Borealis)

Aurora borealis in the sunset over Toolik Field Station
Aurora borealis in the sunset over Toolik Field StationAurora Borealis over Toolik Field Station.
Aurora Borealis over Toolik Field Station.
Aurora Borealis over Toolik Field Station.
Aurora Borealis over Toolik Field Station.
Aurora Borealis over Toolik Field Station.
Aurora Borealis over Toolik Field Station.
Aurora Borealis over Toolik Field Station.
Aurora Borealis over Toolik Field Station.
Aurora Borealis over Toolik Field Station.
Aurora Borealis over Toolik Field Station.
Aurora Borealis over Toolik Field Station.
Aurora Borealis over Toolik Field Station.

That’s all for now readers! I’ve included a few more images from the trip here that didn’t make it into the text. Thanks for checking in!!

Griz

EXTRA PICTURES:

P9010147
What a huge wolf track! The wolves were common in this area, however we weren’t fortunate enough to see them. i think they were closer to the caribou herd about 50 miles away.
P8310044
A nice sunny shot through some seeded grass in Coldfoot.
P8310008
Fireweed is prevalent on the landscape and can be used to make jelly from the flowers. It’s seed now, and the curls and fluff appealed to me.
P9010166
Some bearberry melting through the snow in the Atigun gorge.
P8310049
Crossbill! Apparently these birds are hit and miss in Coldfoot where we were, so i was happy to have this one pose in front of me.

10 thoughts on “In The Land of the Midnight Sun”

  1. Thank you Ian. I feel like I’m right there with you but didn’t have to leave our Maine summer. Sounds like each day is filled with wonder.

  2. Griz, once again you have dazzled me with your worda aand photos. I am close to tears over the quiet beauty of Alasla’s tundra. The Croosbill looks like it has a spike sticking out of it’s bill; is that why it’s called a Crossbill?
    Dose the melting tundra that releases carbon add to the green gas effect, as I am assuming?
    I am so glad that you are so graciously sharing this beautiful country and your incredible journey with us. God bless you and keep up the good work
    Peter

    1. Hey Peter!

      The crossbill has an amazing adaptation for eating pine seeds. The be is scissored (making it look spiked) and enables them to pry open the pine cone one terrace at a time and extract the seed from within. They’re a true specialist.

      The release of carbon in this case is the release of C02 which will increase the volume of greenhouse gases in the atmosphere. For a summary of one of the findings check out this American Scientist article : http://www.scientificamerican.com/article.cfm?id=melting-tundra-releases-carbon-dioxide-quickly

      Hope all is well! Looking forward to tuning in from Alaska once choir gets up and running. Will be great to ‘see’ all of you!

      Griz

  3. Oh Ian, the aurora is unspeakably awesome.
    I have never seen anything like either the aurora or the tundra. These pics are better than those seen in National Geographic, & we get to read such detailed & well explained descriptions. Thank you. It appears as though things are going as well as can be.
    Peggy

    1. Thanks Griz, the atticle helps a lot. The additional info on the Crossbill is great.
      Things are going well with Judy and I. We took a trip to Stowe VT. We really enjoyed the senic road up Summglers Notch. Some of the Giant Boulders are edging the road that has to wind around them. We went ot Ben & Jerrys, the Cabot Creamery and a Cider Mill. A real fun time.
      Choir starts tomorrow and we had our first trainig class for Stephen Ministers with 11 in the class last night. So that is exciting.
      Peace to you.
      Peter

    2. Thanks Peggy! I don’t know about beating Nat Geo, but I’m flattered :D. Things are going very well here, tomorrow is the first day of class, and actually, it makes a bit more stable and easy part of graduate school. The last two weeks have been very busy, so I’m looking forward to settling into a routine!

  4. Words just cannot describe the opportunities you have had and will continue to have, Ian. I know you will make the most of them and am so glad you are willing to share them with us. Love and prayers always, Mom

  5. Okay, okay, I admit, pretty amazing…one-of-a-kind place and experience. I still think you need to get your buns back to Maine….xxoo, Kate

  6. Fantastic post Ian, the pictures are amazing and you described things very well. Wish I could be there to see it with my own eyes! Maybe some day.

Leave a Reply

Your email address will not be published.